Uncategorized


Unfortunately, there is no “13 de Novembro” sign since in Mozambican history, 13 de Novembro was not a day where either a lot of people died or a piece of paper was signed.

BUT

It still is a very important day in MY history, for if it weren’t for the birth of Holly Anne Davies then I would not exist, at least in my current, glorious form (at least she tells me I’m glorious!)

So, I do not have a cool picture to show marking the occasion, but I do have a somewhat decent pic of me in Chimoio on top of a peak that overlooks the city.

As I have about 3 blog entries in progress and no time to write them (at least in the office), you will all have to wait on stories about my amazing empregada, my un-amazing or dead neighbors, a fight that broke out at one of our youth group activities, and of course my trip to the Central region.

I love you , Mom, and hope you are having a good week. Just think, by this time next year I will be buying my plane ticket to come home… and then leave again in another 2 months to go hike the Appalachian Trail. But that’s another story…

Written on 6-6 and 6-7 2007

 

So, the last three weeks have been quite interesting.

Lots of stress. Lots of work (causing the stress). Lots of travel. Lots of frustration.

I have been slacking off on taking pictures. In my travels, I am sometimes reluctant to bring out the camera if I do not have somewhere safe to put it when I am not using it. Also, I have grown pretty accustomed to my surroundings in Xai Xai so there are few sites which really stand out to me anymore. The ones that do are so quick that I do not have time to get the camera out and snap one off.

For instance, the aftermath of a somewhat humorous car ‘crash’ that I passed on my way to work- I say humorous because no one was injured and the car involved looked to be relatively unscathed. The left half of the car jumped the concrete water-retention ditch that lines part of the EN1- which is about 2 feet deep by 3 feet wide. The right half of the car was still on the road. SO basically, you had a car straddling a deep concrete trench. But the really funny-yet inspiring part was seeing the dozens of people actually trying to lift the left side of the car while another team of people pulled a tow rope, with the driver trying to steer away from the hazard. Somehow, they eventually got it over the trench because it was not there in the afternoon. Guess you had to be there. So, I don’t have many pics to show, but there are a few good ones, and I promise to get back in the habit. I do have some highlights of the last few weeks, if you’re interested.

Let’s rewind back to Tofo Beach, land of the expats. A bunch of PCVs met in Tofo to celebrate a colleague’s birthday and stayed the weekend out on the beach. Not really much to report on the celebration, but it was my first trip to that area, so I was pretty excited to see what everyone else always raves about.

By the way, everyone raves about this place.

It is the most popular southern beach in Mozambique. We got there at dusk, so I couldn’t fully realize the beauty of the city that we had just passed through to get there (Inhambane City) or of the beach, but when we woke up the next morning and headed out, it was a sight to see. I love Xai Xai beach, but Tofo is great. It’s beaches are pristine, and the water is amazingly clear. When you wade out, you walk along smooth rock until you cannot touch (at least that’s how it was when I was there, nearing a low tide.) We had plenty of room to play football (American-style) as well as throw the Frisbee with the local dogs, owned by beach residents. There are young Mozambicans that sell custom-made jewelry, and lodges with astoundingly good food. The place was swarming with expatriots from other countries, including some PCVs from Namibia who hung with us for most of the rest of the weekend. In terms of a relaxing place to go and just chill, Tofo gets a 9.5. In terms of experiencing ‘the real Mozambique’, it gets about a 2. Great place for a birthday, not so great for integration into Mozambican culture (plus, things are pretty damn expensive there so you have to budget well- I blew way too much money just eating and sleeping.)

Coming back from the extended weekend, or really any weekend where I interact solely with Americans for 3 or more days (as I have the past 3 weekends for one reason or another), my Portuguese suffers. I say this because it is an interesting kink in our system of learning as Volunteers. In a place like Xai Xai, it takes a lot of effort to not interact in English with other volunteers on a regular basis. Up until Tofo, I kept myself going on a pretty steady and diverse ration of American/Mozambican interactions, but coming back from each weekend, it has been quite a task to reorient myself in the office on Monday morning. Luisa, one of my colleagues, mentioned it today when we were talking about our difficulties in learning each others languages (her English is much better than my Portuguese at this point in time, due in part to two years spent working in Kenya). She told me that I have progressed so much from when she first met me, but when I come back from “a Maputo weekend,” she can tell. Interesting how language can fade so fast despite constant usage for a good part of every day. I am wondering how former PCVs have retained their language skills, should they choose to retain them at all, when they return to the States.

Anyway, back on schedule, where at the office we have been inundated with evaluations, workshops, meetings, and interviews as we inch toward the close of the 2007 Fiscal Year. I never thought that in Peace Corps I would be worrying about the 2007 Fiscal Year, but that’s what working for a big American NGO does for you. It is a good experience, since we are going through this seemingly massive, complicated process in order to make sure that our program is squared away for the coming FY ´08. I would not classify this as the ‘fun’ part of the job, but in this area I guess it is necessary.

Here’s something I never thought I would say: I can’t stand it when things here are left to the last minute. I know that my procrastination skills are famous throughout the land, at least through college (Charity Challenge put the kibosh on that), but there are some cases here where I just want to go jump in the Limpopo because things are sprung upon us with little/usually NO warning and unrealistic expectations are given. This is not working under pressure, this is horrible communication and poor time management.

And now, let me get off my high horse, since my time management skills are nothing to be proud of. But these past few weeks have sometimes been unbearable. Meetings that usurp the entire day, when we could have been out getting real work done. Workshops given when the material that we were have supposed to have read to be prepared for said workshop doesn’t arrive until the night before. E-mails that simply do not reach their destination, causing vital days, sometimes weeks to be lost before things can be done. The good news is, I think that our team operates in a generally efficient manner, especially compared with other sectors. Granted, there are 4 of us, and other departments have sometimes 20 people working around the province that they need to coordinate, but we have a lot of work on our plate- things that we cannot simply pass off to a field representative. We ARE the field rep’s as well as the office staff.

I’m not complaining. I am glad that I am being worked hard, but I just wish it were in a more efficient way. When we have our own objectives and timelines to work with, shit gets done. When we are at the mercy of administration to participate in activities, it always goes horribly awry.

Basically, I hate workshops. The word workshop (which they actually do not usually translate, they just say it in English) makes my blood curdle, but I know there are more in store, so I’ll just have to grin and bear it.

A bright spot as of late has been my participation in other activities outside of Save. Not that I am not wanting to work within SC as much as I am, but I just am trying to ‘diversify my portfolio.’ I have already mentioned that I am involved with the JOMA project, and really enjoying the ability to make connections with folks in Xai Xai who I would not normally associate with. Right now I am coordinating with possible technical trainers to assist groups of young men in developing projects based around one of the following areas: Mural painting, Journalism (newsletters), and Theater. I have been having meetings with local businesses or people who could qualify as trainers, and it has been great. The process of courting technical assistants is fascinating, and I am learning more and more about the structure (both governmental and private business sector) of Xai Xai. I think I promised a link, but never delivered, so here is JOMA in all its glory:

JOMA

 

 

 

http://joma.pcmoz.org/news.php

Also, I recently went down to Maputo to plan for the upcoming Pre-Service Training (PST) (upcoming here means in the next 4 months) for the next group of Peace Corps Volunteers. This will be the 12th group, and they plan to have 45 education volunteers and 20 health volunteers. A group of PCVs, including myself, came down from different areas and groups to discuss and help reform the structure for PST. We have not finalized anything yet, but it seems to be a very rigorous, very solid format for Moz 12. Funny thing: when you are a trainee, you bitch and whine about how everything is just sooo hard, but when you have the chance to give feedback and plan for the next group, you are more than willing to make sure that their training is more ‘complete’ (meaning: a hell of a lot more work). I almost felt bad at the suggestion of more homework. Honestly, though, I feel that with this new format, they will need all of the instruction and practice that they can get. Also, when I say ‘homework’, I am not talking about 5 page essays. I am talking about sitting your homestay family down and having a discussion in Portuguese on the treatment methods of tuberculosis- hell of a lot more interesting and engaging than most of what any of us did as ‘homework’ in college. Anyway, I’ll have more news as the date draws close: September 27 2007 (duh-duh-DUH!). More or less our (Moz 11) one-year anniversary in Mozambique, and our formal graduation from being the rookies in country.

Good thing, I was getting tired of carting water for all of the other Xai Xai PCVs.

So, I have more to report, but I’ll save it for another day. Right now I want to go home. Take care all. Tomorrow, June 8, 2007, is our 6 month anniversary of being volunteers. Woo-ha!

Ciao!

PS- There is absolutely no hazing in Peace Corps. I have never carted water for the other PCVs here. Just wanted to make that clear so I don’t get a call from my CD saying that I have spread rumors about potential PC hazing rituals.

PPS- The hair is big, and getting bigger. I have started wearing bandanas to keep it tamed, and people give me very weird looks because usually only women wear headscarves. Interesting.

I promise I’m not dead, just working a lot. I have some interesting stuff to report, but since my flash drive has been gone, I cannot write posts at home to post at work, and I have barely had a few minutes free (after my usual routine of E-mail, facebook, BBC News and Slate.com to check up on the world). But fear not, I am going to stay late one night this week and crank out a post, and maybe a couple pics if I can conseguir an internet connection on my own computer.

Hope everyone is doing well. Guess I’ll be rooting for the Cavs for Grandpa, though I think the Spurs are gonna steamroll them.

Gotta get to the field, ciao!

Blog Post Written on 17-5-07

The Mozambicans already had their ‘Dia do Mãe’ in April. But for you Americans out there

HAPPY MOTHERS’ DAY!!!

We were watching movies most of last Sunday- bootlegs that I bought while I was in Maputo. If you want a quick critique of the movies we watched, check at the end of this post.

Yeah, so it wasn’t that productive of a Sunday. Throughout most of this, I was trying my hardest to call Mom to say ‘olá’. I had 170 Mtn worth of credit (which would amount to about 5 minutes worth of talk time had I gotten through) but all I could get (and all I continue to get) is a message saying ‘Network Busy’. Damn Mcel.

So, during a break in the movie marathon, we were talking about our mom/mum/ma/mothers, including our favorite moments while we were kids. Yes, some of you reading still consider ME a kid, but like it or not, I can do pretty much everything except rent a car and run for federal public office. I think that my favorite times with my Mom were when I would go out with her while she worked. We really never did a lot of traveling together, though what I can remember from our trip out to Baja California to see grey whales was quite amazing. So a lot of our quality time was spent while she worked. As some of you may know, my Mom works her butt off 24/7. While she was out on the job, I feel we had many a great conversation. I know I am quite the momma’s boy, and even though I was always doing things like sports or Boy Scouts that Mom rarely had the chance to participate in, she knows me better than anyone and will always be able to tell me when I’m full of crap or give me good advice when I’m stuck, as she as already done a few times since I have been here.

So, Mom, I love you and Happy Mother’s Day. Kind of writing this on the fly, but I hope you know how much I love you.

And as for all of the other Moms, both biological as well as inherited- basically every female friend of my parents who has seen me grow up and had some sort of hand in pushing me along up until this point-

Thanks.

There are way too many for me to name, and I would feel awful if I left someone out, but you know who you are.

So, getting back to life here.

First and foremost: I really like futebol now. I have been trying to keep up- with the help of other volunteers who are huge soccer fans already- with the Champions League in Europe. Quite thrilling really, especially when most of the folks in the bar or restaurant with you are super-psyched to watch ANY game of soccer.

Also: I really like Cow’s Head Soup. First time I had it in Mafuiane, I only ate it because I had dared myself to choke it down without vomiting. Chewing the fat that is what I believe to be the exterior skull lining is kind of like chewing a bicycle innertube. But, there is a restaurant in Xai Xai that we go to a lot where this soup is the specialty. I tried it again and now I love it, innertube-chewing and all. I get it every time I am there. With a bit of piri-piri (hot sauce). In Shangaana, they call it Mukluklu. So, next time anyone offers you some mukluklu, say ‘sim’.

One last thing, which I will expand upon at a later date. I went down to Maputo a couple weekends ago to get involved with a project started by some Moz 9 Health Volunteers that deals with the education of young men as well as the transmission of knowledge through group activities and projects in relation to gender and HIV&AIDS. Before you can say ‘comportamentos do género’, I am now getting ready to take over as the Southern Conference coordinator. What does this mean? Some more work. Ok, eventually, it will mean a whole hell of a lot of work. I am really happy to have something else to do besides my work at Save. It will get me out of the office more, and let me connect even more with the other organizations as well as the government in the Gaza province. I am completely sold on this project and convinced that it is exactly the kind of thing that Mozambican youth need right now. We’re not throwing money at them and saying ‘DO SOMETHING!’. We are giving them a template on how to create successful projects such as murals, newsletters, theater or photo journalism exhibits that will help them as well as other members of their community learn. I will post more later on when I get more involved.

By the way, that was my first extended stay in Maputo since training. It’s bloody expensive down there, but there are some cool places. There is a half-ass carnival with really old arcade games (can you say Street Fighter II TURBO!) and some good restaurants. We ate at a French restaurant owned and operated by this old French guy that looks half Hells Angel, half Iron Chef (think the Walt Whitman beard with a biker ponytail, but dressed like that guy from the Frugal Gourmet) I had lamb. It was wonderful.

Ok, gotta go for now. Going to the famous Tofo beach in Inhambane this weekend for someone’s birthday, so I should have some cool pics next week.

Ciao!

*Quickly, here’s the rundown of the movies I bought and a quick critique.

300- Great visual effects, but too much testosterone. Grand speeches, bad accents, and lots of leather speedos. I was actually pretty disappointed, since the graphic novel it was based on about the Spartan defense at Thermopylae was really cool. Lots of blood (in a bad way). I am now kind of scared about how the director will make Alan Moore’s graphic novel Watchmen into a movie.

Hot Fuzz- From the guys who made Shaun of the Dead. Bloody hilarious (if you like British Humor) and a good skewering of buddy-cop action movies.

Letters From Iwo Jima- Intense stuff, but worth it, if you can stomach downers and a whole lot of subtitles. If you watch it with dubs (or anything with dubs) you’ll lose out on the emotion that characterized the Japanese defense of Iwo Jima. I haven’t seen Flags of My Fathers, but if it’s anything close to Letters, then I am looking forward to it.

Smokin’ Aces- Freakin’ Awesome action and some memorable, if totally ridiculous, characters from the writer director of Narc, which is one of my favorite cop movies of all time. The plot is crap but-then again- you don’t really watch action movies for the plot, do you? Lots of blood (in a ‘good’ way)

Babel- I liked 21 Grams and Amores Perros better, but this was a really great movie. Awesome plot and a great mix of “wholly-depressing-this-world-is-screwed” with “by-golly-there-is-hope-in-this-world-after-all!”

Xai Xai 283 Xai Xai 288
Here is the view from Zongoene, on the coast in between Xai Xai and Bilene, where we work with the health workers and youth, as well as having primary education projects in place.
Xai Xai 286

I kinda look like I’m doing the pelvic thrust from ‘The Time Warp’ dance in Rocky Horror Picture Show.

Anyway, what you are seeing is the delta of the great-grey-greasy Limpopo river (remember the Kipling story I posted)
Xai Xai 278Xai Xai 279Xai Xai 280

Above is a panorama of the river snaking it’s way to the Indian ocean (notice the overlap, which I will someday edit out and create a nice poster of the Limpopo). In the distance of the third, you see the mouth.
Xai Xai 287
Luisa did not quite get the camera straight. And I look a bit busted. Yes, my hair is getting a bit long.
Xai Xai 289
Absolutely beautiful!

Boa fim de semana, todos!

So, it looks like my empregada situation has resolved itself, kind of.

The guy who lives behind me, Lindo, has not paid Leia for the past two months. She gave us an ultimatum that if she does not receive 400 Mtn by April 20, she is not coming anymore.

It is now April 26, and she has not come this week at all. Lindo refuses to pay her because she was sick for a week and did not work. I told him to talk to her, and say that he will pay for all of it except the week she did not work. He will not relent his position and still refuses payment. Stubborn chauvinist asshole.

So, I am carting my own water, and I will wash my own clothes this week. This could be good because I could now get a say in who we choose to be our new empregada. This time around, I’m going to pay a little more and have her cook Mozambican food for me a few times a week. I miss eating mboa (pumpkin leaves) and caril de galinha (chicken stew). Of course, this still does not resolve Lindo being a prick who cares more about his chapa than his family or girlfriend.

FYI- Lindo also owes me 200, but I know he will pay me because he can’t run away or fire me.

Only bummer was, I think Leia used one of my capulanas and now has it. It was my “UF” capulana (orange and blue). Oh well. Here’s the only pic I have of her, taken on tia Yvonne’s Birthday. So long, Leia!
Only Pic of Leia

Written on 24-4-07 (WARNING! Graphic images/language related to Sex. Ed. to follow)

Youth Training! Come One, Come All!

See the Americans try to facilitate sessions in Portuguese!
Eat all the chicken or beef (fish= acabo) you can stomach!
Play foosball (yes foosball, not futebol) and annoy the opposite sexon your down time!
Learn about:

- Respecting women!

- Those funny hairs growing in funny places!

- Making your community more aware of adolescent health!

- Not getting pregnant/getting other people pregnant!

- SEX! SEX! SEX!

Tuesday April 17- Saturday the 21, 2007, Joaquim Chissano Secondary School

Xai Xai, Moçambique

So, maybe if we had put a flyer with this up the kids would’ve been a bit more pumped, eh?

Last week was hard.

We organized a training for 50 youth in areas related to Adolescent Reproductive and Sexual Health. We also had, as a bit of a warm-up for us and a refresher for the participants, a mini-training with some of the Save staff who are helping us monitor and assist the youth groups that we have created. Later on in the post, I may compare the attitudes of the Save staff and those of the youth.

But for now, on with the show.

So, it was very hard just to get the 50- make that 47- kids to the training (If you want further commentary/an entertaining rant that I cannot put on this blog, ask me sometime about ‘logistics’ and watch me blow a fuse). Last week was a holiday for Mozambican schools (equate it to a fall or winter break, but not related to a holiday), so we decided to conduct the training when the kids had plenty of free time. We would go to the communities and interview kids who were interested in participating in the youth groups as a full-fledged member. Here was the criteria:

§ Adolescentes e Jovens que:

§ Sejam VOLUNTÁRIOS;

§ vivem permanentimente na comunidade;

§ São Simpatizantes no núcleo;

§ Estão DISPONÍVEIS E COMPROMETIDOS com as actividades do núcleo num mínimo de 1 ano;

§ Têm HABILIDADES de aprender e CAPACIDADE para transmitir aos outros;

§ Não inferior a 12 e não superior a 20 anos;

§ Não estejam nas classes finais do nível escolar local (5ª e 7ª classes);

§ Ainda não foram treinados oficialmente em matérias de Saúde Sexual e Reprodutiva incluíndo a prevencao do HIV/SIDA.

§ Activistas de outros programas a nível local.

§ “Acreditados” pelos outros adolescentes e Jovens e a comunidade em geral

Sorry, I do not feel like translating all of that, but it’s pretty easy to figure out. It essentially asks for kids who are committed, between the ages of 12-20, and have not yet been trained in ARSH. (Adolescent Reproductive and Sexual Health, or you may see me forget that I’m writing in English and put SSRAJ, which is Saúde Sexual e Reprodutvia para Adolescentes e Jovens) We asked to have a pool of possible participants in each area. We selected more women than men and more from some areas than others. We are realizing that the dropout rate in these groups is way higher in females for a number of reasons (too much work placed on them, school, pregnancy, marriage), so we stacked our deck to lessen the blow later when the females leave. Also, some communities are more organized than others and really require less help in terms of strong participation, so we tried to boost the membership of those groups that are floundering (lack of leadership, attendance, activity em geral). It was a bit of a process. We get to community X, and half the kids are not qualified based on age or school level. Another few can’t talk because there’s a big goofy white guy sputtering Portuguese in his general direction, which apparently leaves some kids speechless. So, we are left with our elite few, willing to take the charge and become members of the groups. Throw in a free trip to Xai Xai and free food all week and you pretty much convinced any kid on the block that joining this youth group was a good idea.

I’m not being totally fair to these kids. Quite a few were REALLY excited- the most promising prospect of the bunch that I interviewed was a 12 year old girl who had no fear talking about sex or condoms or HIV in front of you, me, Chau, or President Guebuza himself. She was amazing, and after we ended the interview and she walked away, Chau and I both nodded and I said “ that one is the future of this youth group”. There were quite a few others like her, too. Most kids actually fell into the category of “interested, but totally oblivious to ARSH” which was fine. That was, after all, why we were having the training!

So, We invite 50 kids to the Secondary School here in XX. 47 came. Here are a few shots of the facilities:

TDJ 019 TDJ 022 TDJ 058
TDJ 055 TDJ 059

Not bad, eh? This is probably one of the nicest schools you’ll see in Mozambique outside of Maputo City.

Anyway, so I volunteered myself to ‘monitor’ (read: babysit) the lil’ rascals at night and sleep over at the school with them in the dormitories. Just so you know, I have not not slept in a dormitory since I went to SuperCamp (gosh was it super! Ask my Mom what I thought of it.) at Eckerd College in 7th grade.

*Note: My years at UCF do not count since, as the amazing Joe Paulick reminded us before every Open House that we worked giving tours to prospective students and their families, UCF only has RESIDENCE HALLS. That means no bathroom shared by the whole floor and no more than 5 people to a suite. So there! Woo-ha!

So we kicked this shindig off on Tuesday the 17th. We decided to split them up between sex for most of the training. We were hoping that each group would be more participative since they did not have to worry about what members of the opposite sex would say, and we had been hoping that it would be easier to present material relating to sex- some of which had not yet graced the ears of some of our virginal participants- if males were in general presenting to other males and females presenting to other females. More on that later. The first day, we made sure everyone arrived safely, had some minor meltdowns with the folks who were catering our food (We Ordered 32 half-chickens! Why did you only bring 23!) and talked about how the youth groups are run and how they can organize activities within the community as members of these groups. Chau and I worked with the rapazes and Connie and Luisa worked with the raparigas. Day 1, as a whole, though, went pretty smoothly. The kids seemed to get why they were there, and we were encouraged by relatively eager participation. We ended the day tired but optimistic. I moved in with the boys to the male dormitory (with some help from Magaia, the coolest damn Community Mobilizer this side of anywhere). This was my space.

TDJ 024

Quaint. Kind of like Camp Miles, only indoors… mosquitoes and all!

Enter the age-old battle, usually associated with camp or babysitting, between those who want order (me) and those who want to have fun (kids).

I have officially become The Man.

Here I was, charged with making sure the boys and girls stayed safe every night. Most of the time, it was quite easy. We organized for dinner at 1930, played until 2300, and then took attendance to see who was skipping out. To my surprise, NO ONE tried to get out of the school and hit the town. I played foosball with the boys while keeping a watchful eye on the entrance to the girls dormitory. Problem was, there was a sports camp there at the same time, so I had little power to keep the boys out. I told a couple of the older girls to make sure that they kept the boys at bay, which they did some of the time, but I saw plenty of boys crawling in and out of windows. I started out trying to be that camp counselor who wants to stay up all night and make sure everyone’s in bed and not fraternizing, but then I remembered my days at Wendigo and realized that it was virtually impossible to be The Man and win. So, just in case, I left a box of condoms near the foot of my bed and called it a night after taking attendance. I drifted off to sleep to Astral Weeks feeling quite content camping out with the kids.

As the days went by, things got more interesting. Sometimes there were lulls in the action. For example, Puberty was not exactly a big hit in terms of participation. I found that surprising, considering pretty much ALL of them are currently in the throes of puberty. We tried spicing it up by incorporating slang into activities, as seen below.

TDJ 030 TDJ 038
TDJ 031 TDJ 034

My favorite is in the section of slang words for ‘vagina’, some kids wrote ‘bife’ (beef) and ‘feijão’ (beans). If you want to know what the rest mean, look them up.

My main day of facilitation was when I presented to the guys on gender and sex, as well as inequality in society. What a scorcher, eh? Well, the kids really got into it at some points, and we had some rousing conversations. Some of my favorite points that were brought up included:

- Women are biologically equipped to be better cooks, so they should do all of the cooking for the household.

- Likewise, men are biologically better equipped to be leaders, and that’s why they are the leaders of government, family and society in general.

- Women should not be allowed to wear revealing clothing past a certain time at night and not expect to be harassed

- Women should ask for sex, Men should want sex (though in the group of women this statement was reversed)

- Women should be the caretakers of children without help from men.

You get the jist. There’re some pretty interesting ideas floating around here. Below is a pic of me facilitating the gender session. We gave each kid a piece of paper with a word or phrase like ‘leadership’ and asked them to put it somewhere on the wall where two figures were posted, one drawing of a male and one drawing of a female. The goal was to show that pretty much every activity besides pregnancy/breastfeeding can be shared by women and men, as the other pic shows:

TDJ 028 TDJ 083 TDJ 085

And for all of you doubters who think I am just a beach bum and I don’t do any work, here is proof that I am actually NOT living at the praia de Xai Xai.

*Let me note here that my writing in Portuguese is improving. I had to prepare the Gender activity all myself (what a big boy you are, david!). However, in looking at this first draft of the first page of the activity, I still have a LOT of work to do in terms of my writing skills. (Pink=not good.)

Xai Xai 274

 

In general, though, we spent way more time than we wanted to on the gender unit, and their knowledge of the subject the following day (as determined by group reviews) was abysmal. We had asked them to do role plays of situations where gender roles are unequal, and they used the chance to just goof off in Shangaana. I have yet to see a dramatic skit performed by youth concerning health in this country. I understand that sometimes it is good to present problems in an amusing way- it helps people understand and confront the issue. But sometimes, you have to be serious and it seems that presenting serious skits is virtually impossible for the youth of Mozambique. Tack that on as another objective on my list during my stay here:

58. Get kids to present a dramatic skit about HIV or early pregnancy. (Not like the ones below)

TDJ 071 TDJ 064 TDJ 069

So, the days continued on. Sometimes the kids were alert and participating, sometimes they went into comas for an hour and we couldn’t elicit so much as a groan (Groan once for ‘sim’ and twice for ‘não’). I must say, though, that the kids overall were more professional and definitely more interactive than the Save staff that we worked with earlier in the week. Some of these kids are sharp as hell: these groups are totally voluntary- they will not receive one metical from their participation- and yet some go about their participation as if it were their job, which is more than I can say for some of our fellow employees.

Anyway, I found that my favorite parts were usually at night. The kids and I would exchange English phrases for those in Shangaana, and I learned a few new card games while tutoring them in ARSH. Some were extremely interested in studying whatever themes we had talked about that day, while others remained focused on memorizing the layout of the girls’ dormitory. I held talks about HIV, Condoms, and the awkwardness of gender. Very few of the kids got sick, and there were relatively few incidents of shenanigans. The one that was admittedly both very cruel and somewhat funny (though I kept a straight face and admonished the offender) was when a girl took another’s clothing and flung it about all over the common area outdoors in between the dormitories. The victim went quasi-catatonic for a bit before she regained her composure. Oh, to be 15 again.

Come Saturday, it was time for the kids to return to their communities, and time for us to breath a sigh of relief. Chega (enough) on the group work, flip-chart paper and health definitions… for now. I had a great time learning about the attitudes that Mozambican youth have towards Adolescent Health, and I think that we planted some seeds of knowledge in some of the kids. Here is the graduating class of April ’07, in all their Save the Children paraphernalia/propaganda wear:

 

Xai Xai 268

And here are some other pics from the week.

TDJ 007 TDJ 013 TDJ 039
TDJ 029 TDJ 032 TDJ 051
TDJ 054 TDJ 056 TDJ 049
TDJ 139 TDJ 140 TDJ 141
TDJ 153 TDJ 085

Of course, more photos can always be found at my webshots page, simply by clicking on these pics!
Soon, I will get up a couple pics of one of the most glorious views I have seen so far in Mozambique. Until then, Ciao!

Written on 3 April 2007

Let’s talk about the position of empregadas here in Mozambique. I do not yet know everything about the system here of hired help, especially when it comes to work such as farming, construction, or other labor. Most PCVs here, though, have undertaken the responsibility of hiring a person- most of the time it’s a woman- as a housekeeper of sorts. The tasks vary from household to household. They include washing clothes, cooking meals, shopping, cleaning the house and/or yard, washing dishes, carrying water, taking care of pets, etc. My empregada was working for the folks who live behind me for about a year before I got there. Her name is Leia, and she is about 25 years old. For my neighbors, she cooks breakfast and dinner, washes clothes 2-3 times a week, does yard work when necessary, cleans their house every day, washes dishes, and sometimes sells fish out of their freezer. She comes to the house and works every day except Sunday. She also will help with ‘special events’ (for example, she helped cook and host for Yvonne’s birthday party.) She may get paid extra to help out with things like that, but in a normal month she is paid 400 Mtn.

*Remember: a standard conversion here is 25 Mtn = 1 USD.

In addition, since I have been here, she now washes my clothes 1 day a week (usually when washing the other clothes), cleans my house 4-5 times a week and washes dishes when needed. She also brings water from the yard into my house and fills my water filter and storage container in my casa de banho. For this, I have been instructed by Yvonne to pay her 200 Mtn per month.

I tried to pay her 400 the first month I was here. Actually, I DID pay her 400. I gave it to her directly at the end of the first full month. 3 days later, Yvonne came to my door with a scowl on her face. She said (of course, most of the time when I say “he/she/they said” it means that they said this in Portuguese, not English) “Mr. Davíd, did you give Leia the money for this month?”

I replied “Yes, I paid her 400.”

Yvonne cringed. “WHAT? Why did you give her 400? She does not do enough to give her 400?”

I was a bit put off that they were telling me that my judgement was bad. “Well, I thought that’s what she deserved.”

“In the future, you will pay her 200. You will give the money to me and then I will give it to her.”

So, I pay her 200. I still feel somewhat bad, but I’ve made peace with the fact that it would be almost impossible to hire another emregada just for my work, and have her working and using the same areas and resources as Leia.

Now, as the weeks have gone by, my attitude towards Leia has been on somewhat of a rollercoaster ride. One day, she cleans everything, folds the clothes perfectly and puts everything back exactly where she found it, with full water containers in each room. The next, I come home to find almost nothing done, save for the fact that I’m missing a couple bread rolls, two eggs, and all of the lids to my spices are screwed on wrong. She has some strange concepts of organization, which I have put a hlat to. Namely, if there is a group of magazines arranged on my table, she will stack them. If there are papers on the table, they go in the stack as well.

Books? Headed to the stack.

Notepads? Stack it up.

In fact, any scrap of relatively flat material gets fed to the stack until my table is relatively clear… save for a 2 foot jenga tower of that takes me much more time to sort out than it took her to pile up.

 

*Idea: Emregada Olympics- events include;

            - freestyle stacking, (graded on type of material used, height, and time)

            - Traditional cooking, How fast can one light the fire, prepare the food, and wash the dishes.

            - The water carry, how big of a container can be carried on one’s head, and for how long.

I talk of these things in jest, but in reality I am in awe of empregadas here. They work their butts off, sometimes doing grueling work that you and I would never in a million years want to do.

 

Anyway, back on topic. Sounds like I’m being a big whiner? Maybe. I’ve talked to her a couple times, each time it’s about something different that she takes without asking first. Bleach, condoms, pens, forks, noodles, a capulana… it gets a bit tiresome. One day, I think , she decided to take a shower using my neighbor’s casa de banho. However, she came and took MY PEPPERMINT SOAP to use. Now, you can mess with the bleach, take my pens, but if you touch my Dr. Bronner’s soap, the bar my Mom sent me from the States, then you’ve gone too far (I was not happy that day.) She chewed a whole pack of gum that one of my friends sent me in one day. ONE DAY! What a waste! (I found the wad in the trash pile- it reminded me of a story I think my Mom told me about someone shoving a whole load of gum in their mouth just so no one else could enjoy it.)

Partially, I am just not used to the empregada system. Some workers have arrangements where they can use whatever they need to cook themselves lunch. I, however, require prior consent before there is any pilfering of eggs and sugar. I can never know this for sure, but I believe that she does not feel bad about taking my things because I am white and therefore have money. You know what? I don’t even care if she takes some of these things. I have told her (yesterday) that she just needs to ask. As for things that I do not want her to have, I now just store them in my room where she does not have access.

I am now assuming that if I leave it out, there is a good chance it will be used or taken.

This experience in general is new to me, as I have never had a housekeeper before (except for the mandatory cleaning every week in college. You know they weren’t there just to clean your room. I think they got paid extra for every bottle of booze they found in a freshman’s room.) I have been quite patient, really, and very forgiving so far, since I do not envy the work she does. I admire her, actually, for sticking with such a hard job that pays so little. However, I think we need to have a good talk about the first few months, just so we are on the same page. I think the empregada system is a good source of employment for many Mozambican women. I know that there a re quite a few PCVs and other foreigners who feel the same way that I do- that they are overworked and underpaid. In talking to my Mozambican friends and colleagues, though, they warn me not to go too much against the grain in terms of the way empregadas are treated here. If I treat them much differently, aka ‘better’, than other empregadas, there is a good chance I will get taken advantage of in a major way. So, we’ll see. I think a good talk will go a long way, and my Portuguese is getting to the level where I can express lots of different emotions, such as disappointment. This could turn out to be a great working relationship.

 

As long as she keeps her hands off my Dr. Bronner’s.

Happy 6 months to all of the Moz 11 group still in country!

Can you freakin’ believe that we haven’t been in the States for 6 months?! I know that there are a few pros in our group who have done this before- study abroad or work for other organizations. But as a rookie to this kind of thing, I am pleased with myself and my progress so far.

I have been looking back on the last bit of time (not just to reminisce, but because I have to for Peace Corps to document what I’ve been doing) and have realized that I am completely surprised at where I am, both figuratively and literally, in Mozambique. Past all of the I-Want-To-Go-North whining that I did; that’s all behind me. But just how far I have come- how far the group as a whole has come, is very astonishing. Preconceptions were blown right out the window. Basically, everyone who I have talked to has changed their tune about almost everything, whether it is site, coworkers, friends, politics… you name it, and they’ve had a slight epiphany about it. Which is good, right?! That’s partially what we are here for- a two-year awakening of sorts. I know that this blog has been less than adequate in terms of conveying just what has gone on here, but I hope you get just a small glimpse. I know some you started to read the stuff about the holidays, and the griping about TV or music (oh wait, there’s more of that if you read on) and said “Soooo, what exactly IS he DOING over there?” Well, it is true that when we are alone or with other PCVs, we do not love to talk about work. Not many folks on the face of the Earth do. If we try to sit down after hours at the bar and discuss next week’s plan of attack for the focus groups we will be handling, our counterparts will politely smile, take a sip of beer and ask us how we’ve liked the weather the past few days.
We love to gripe about some of the same shit we griped about in the States. Food, music, clothes, politics, religion… blah blah blah. Only here, it’s got the Mozambican slant. You get to read a part of that because that really is what we experience and what we think about. It’s not as if the Americans go to a new country, step off the plane, and are magically converted into beings who sit around debating the strategies for international health care and the risks of economic globalization for fun. Six months into country, and we still need our own space to talk about all of the crap we wish we could do right now but can’t. This blog, in a way, is that space.
*Partially this is due to the fact that I have not, as I really never did in the States, found someone here who I completely gel with and share the same views with on a deeper-than-normal level… and who I can share these views on a regular basis.

However, you will see that there are some nuggets tucked into these pages of the blog that show some real insight into our work, and I hope it has been modestly entertaining to read and see what is flowing through my brain.

*Just finished what has turned out to be one of my favorite books ever. I know a lot of people have read it, since it was awarded the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction and usually, when something wins that kind of an award, it immediately gains a substantial following.

***Sorry, small rant here. Promise it won’t take long.***
As most of you who know me already know, I have come to pretty much despise that kind of validation for something being viewed as ‘good’. Oscars, Grammys, Pulitzers, Tonys… any award that is voted on to consider a piece of art ‘good’ is a marketing sham. Not that I am telling the folks whose art is submitted for consideration to boycott such events. I just think that people should be able to like whatever they like regardless of the industry’s seal of approval. Go see that new horror sequel, or pick up the new Nicholas Sparks book, or plop down and watch Grey’s Anatomy… if you like it, then huzzah! And these countless awards committees be damned. Seems everything can win an award somewhere anyway; it’s kind of made the whole business of handing them out a bit pointless. I know I have been a vocal critic in the past, but coming here has made me change my tune once and for all, esp. after seeing the absolute adoration in the eyes of some of these folks when the Michael Bolton gets cranked up at the bar (which I think they secretly do to get all of the mulungus out of their place)

Besides, in a world where the only Oscar that Robert Altman wins is a lifetime achievement statue (which is usually what I like to see given out anyway), it seems the whole system HAS to be flawed.

Ok, so, what was that book that I have just finished reading? It’s called The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier and Clay by Michael Chabon. He wrote another book I like, Wonder Boys, and I heard Clay was even better. Turns out, it’s bloody marvelous! I’m not going to explain all the plot points, but it’s basically about 1940’s New York, dealing with the golden age of comics and – more importantly- attitudes towards certain classes and groups in America at that time (Jews, Gays, Germans, Antarctica, etc.) I read apart of it a while back, and bought it before I left for Mozambique so I could read it in full while I was here. I cannot stop thinking about how great it is, so I felt I had to tell someone who may care (the Mozambicans haven’t really seemed that interested so far except to say that the book looks long). Go read it.

In other news, there were a bunch of explosions caused by someone’s bonehead decision to keep around some antique explosives well past their expiration date. ‘Tremendous heat’ has been labeled the cause for the shit blowing up, leaving at least 72 people (and maybe more, now) dead in Maputo City. I think someone just dropped the wrong box of goodies one too many times All who are connected to PC Mozambique are fine, so no one has to worry.

In the ‘cultural integration’ department, my name has spread throughout my neighborhood like wildfire (or trash fire). I am now hailed from many parts of the bairro. For cityfolk to take an interest in me says a lot, or it least it acknowledges that I have been productive in selling myself as an open and amicable kind of guy. I have seen a couple other blogs of other PCVs and their awesome stories of integration within their communities. For me, the big challenge was getting the lay of the land. After three months here, I can find my way around Bairro 11 in the dark and not feel unsure of myself or get lost. It is a lot different than somewhere in the mahtu. I now see it as interesting that I live in the place where a good amount of other PCVs travel to do business or run errands. In a way, I guess I am lucky, but it also means that I have a monumental task still ahead of me in terms of carving out my own identity in a place that sees hundreds of foreigners pass through its arterial thoroughfare every day. Now, if only I can remember the people who I see on the walk to work everyday- or even harder- the people who I see downtown who scream ‘hey neighbor, how is it going?’ and I just have to respond with the ‘all good’ generic remark because I cannot put a face to a name.

- I also want to get into fishing, but not until next pay period, when I actually have money.
- I’ve been lazy with the camera lately, but I promise to get more pics up soon.

Last thing for now: I finally saw The Departed.
Oh. My. God.
It really doesn’t get much better than that. From the Dropkick Murphys’ storm-the-barricades style rebel rouser during the opening ‘credit sequence’, to the awesome twists and turns, to the blood, to Jack Nicholson being the absolute MAN, I was satisfied.

Good show, Scorsese.

This post will not be that long, nor will it really be about March Madness. Just want everyone who is Stateside to know that pretty much EVERY American here wishes they could sit down and watch a few of the best 63 games of any sport of the year.

The Southern PCVs gathered a couple weekends ago for a Regional Conference in Maputo. Upon my return on Monday, I realized that there is a LOT of work to be done in the next few months here at Save. My boss is working her butt off trying to get things together for a couple upcoming trainings (and by ‘upcoming’, I mean in the next few months). We are also brainstorming possibilities for a couple internships for local students in secondary schools who have come from Save-sponsored youth groups in the more rural communities. One of my ideas so far has been to start up a newsletter to document the successes of these youth groups, and for the interns to help collect and write stories for this newsletter. I think it would be a relatively easy and yet very productive way for the groups to hear about one another, share ideas, and communicate with other kids that they normally would never meet. We’ll see how this develops in the next couple months.

Em termos do community integration, I have been hanging with some kids from around my house. At first, they were obsessed with my boss’s dog that I was walking. They would glare at it, walk by it like they were cool, calm, and unafraid of it, and then run away screaming and laughing. It’s kind of like the scene from Stand By Me where the kidstaunt the junkyard dog and then beat feet in a fit of hysterics when the old man comes to take it out of their hides- only I’m no old man and all I want to do is play futebol.

Well, now, we play futebol. And we race each other to the top of the hill… I always lose. Two of the kids- DiDi and Ensidio (or something like that, still can’t figure out some of the names here)- are warming up to me more and more, and we now sit on my wall talking about whatever we can in our limited portuguese vocabularies. I also let them do chalk drawings on my porch, which they love. I’m going to ask my landlord if they can do drawings on the wall outside of the house for the next health-themed holiday.

This week, I will be sitting in with one youth group as they practice and present their debates and plays on prevention of HIV and STIs. Many of these youth were trained last year in Adolescent and Reproductive Health, but I will be there to assist with any questions and problems that occur. One thing I am very curious to see is the presentation of a condom demonstration.We learned how to do them in Portuguese during training last November, so i will brush up before tomorrow. I have a feeling that they may not have the most complete step-by-step procedure for the process, so I may have to intervene. I think, though, that it is pretty damn cool that kids as young as 12-13 are giving condom demonstrations. You give a condom and a wooden penis to 100 kids in the States and tell them to perform a demonstration in front of 40-50 of their peers, I’ll bet that at least 80% would balk. Here, the topic is not as taboo. When I visited a primary school last week, there was a box of condoms available for the taking on the front desk in the administrative office (probably more for the professors, but also available for students). Holding a condom is not taboo. Even the idea of using a condom, in my short stay here, has not been met with a wide degree of resistance (though go into the REAL rural areas/ farther North and you may get different perspectives). It’s the idea of HOW to use the condom where the adolescents falter. The instructions are on the box, but in the height of sexual passion, does ANYONE really stop to read directions? Especially when you’re 15? Remember, 15 year olds already know EVERYTHING, even here in Mozambique. But, surprise them outside of their classroom with an impromptu demonstration for the whole 8th grade class, and I think they listen. Plus, they’ll never have to admit not knowing how to do it. Everybody wins!

Of course, availability is a problem in many areas as well. But we’re working on that, too.

 PS* Special thanks to my cousin Morgan. That Hot Chip CD that you bought while you were in Florida and that I burned onto my IPOD… it’s probably one of the coolest things I’ve heard in a while. ‘Over and Over’ gets me ready to kick ass in the morning. Definitely glad you bought that album.

Next Page »